Tuesday, January 10, 2012

PART 2: 5 RULES FOR COMMAND TRAINING YOUR NEW PUPPY

To continue the theme of my last post, this is the second of three info sheets I gave to each new puppy owner about how to train your new puppy. This is training to get your puppy to perform desired behaviors on command.

RULE #1 - PRAISE: Always praise your dog whenever he performs an obedience task correctly. Do so enthusiastically, in an excited voce, petting, scratching, and stroking him in ways he likes most. It is impossible to exaggerate how important positive reinforcement is to the training process, more so than any other rule. Your puppy's desire to please you will be the single strongest motivating force for training him to do the right thing and obey commands.

NEVER praise or reward your dog for performing these behaviors on their own, without a command, unless you want him to. For example, a friend of mine trained her dog to sit up and beg on command for a treat. The first time he did so without being asked she gave him a treat, remarking how cute it was. Now he does it all the time, begging for treats constantly, and the behavior has become a nuisance.

NEVER use treats to encourage behavior. Your dog should obey your commands for praise alone, without the expectation of getting a treat. This is counterproductive because if you ever need him to obey you when you do not have treats on hand, the dog will be disappointed and may eventually stop doing the behavior on command again. Treats are not for training, they are for bonding and play time.

RULE #2 - CONSISTENCY: Remain consistent in everything you do. Use the same command for a particular behavior every time. Only praise your puppy when he performs the behavior exactly, not almost or half-way. Make him repeat the behavior until he gets it right. Every day or every other day take a half-hour or so taking your dog through the full battery of commands you've taught him to keep him in practice.

RULE #3 - PATIENCE: Don't grow impatient with your puppy if he has difficulty with a behavior, and never lose your temper. Make him repeat a behavior until he gets it exactly right, then praise him. Only work on one behavior at a time until he masters it, then progress to the next one. Don't spend more than 30 minutes in each training session. Longer, and both you and your puppy will grow impatient and frustrated. However, you can have any number of 30-minute training sessions in a day, as long as there are breaks for play and cuddling.

NEVER, EVER punish your puppy for failing a command. Just withhold praise and make him do it again. In this sort of training it is you asking the dog to do something that does not come naturally to him, so punishment is neither fair nor productive.

RULE #4 - SHOW AND TELL: When teaching your puppy a new behavior, perform the command clearly. For verbal commands, say the puppy's name first to let him know the command is directed at him, then say the command: "Spike, sit!" or "Juniper, down!" or "Captain Bly, heal!" etc. Then show the puppy what you'd like him to do by physically making him do it: pushing his butt down to the floor; pushing his shoulders down until he lays down; pulling the leash around you until he is in heal position, etc. Remember that he is not going to do it the first time, maybe even not the first 20 times. Don't express disappointment or anger, in fact each time he fails show no emotion whatsoever. He wants your praise, do not give it until he performs the behavior exactly how you want him to do it. Then praise him and make him do it again, reinforcing the behavior on command.

RULE #5 - COMMANDS TO TEACH: What commands do I teach my puppy? I have listed the most common commands below, along with the expected behavior and the hand signal that commonly goes with it. I have a friend who is deaf and has taught his dog based on hand signals alone, no verbal commands. It's actually pretty cool to watch.
NOTE: Commands do not have to be shouted, in fact the more calmly and softly spoken the better. Hand signals do not need to be big, exaggerated movements, in fact the subtler the better.

I have only listed obedience commands below. I am not fond of dog "tricks" but you can come up with any command you want for any trick you want to teach your puppy, as long as those commands don't conflict with the ones below and confuse your dog.

"SIT"

Dog should sit on command from any other position, including laying down. If your dog lays down, or lounges back on their haunch like they're vacationing in the Caribbean, this is wrong. Sitting only, with tail behind, is correct.
HAND SIGNAL: Fist raised toward dog's nose.

"UP"

Dog should stand up and relatively still on command from any position. All four paws on the ground. Some movement is okay but if your dog is dancing around or otherwise fidgeting this is to be discouraged.
HAND SIGNAL: Palm flat and up, hand lifted sharply.

"DOWN"

NOTE: NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH "OFF", below!
Dog should lie down on command. On belly with front paws in front, rear paws tucked under, tail behind is correct. Lying on his side or with paws out to the sides is wrong.
HAND SIGNAL: Palm flat and down, hand lowered sharply.

"STAY"

Dog should remain in whatever position he is currently in until another command is given. Walk away and come back to ensure your dog learns this well. Make him stay while sitting, standing, lying down, etc. When well-learned your dog will stay almost indefinitely.
HAND SIGNAL: Palm flat and raised toward dog's nose, hand thrust toward dog sharply.

"COME"

Dog should immediately come to you and sit directly in front of you, awaiting further instruction.
HAND SIGNAL: Palm flat and upward, hand lifted in an arc toward yourself.

"OFF"

NOTE: NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH "DOWN", above!
Command is given when your dog in either up on something and you want him down, or when jumping up on someone who does not want him to do so. Dog should immediately jump down to the floor or ground on command.
HAND SIGNAL: Palm flat and sideways, hand swept in a downward arc across your body.

"HEAL"

Whether on a leash or not, dog should take up a standing position at your side, shoulder even with your calf, on either the left or right side, whichever side you indicate with the hand signal (see below.) If the dog is in front of you, he should walk around your side and come up from behind on the indicated side. Additionally, the dog should remain there until another command is given, walking when you walk, stopping when you stop, keeping pace with you at all times. If you stop for an extended period it is okay if he sits, but he must rise up again and keep pace when you start moving again.

This command is easiest to teach on a leash first, then try it without one.
HAND SIGNAL: Thumb pointing to right or to left, whichever side you want the dog to stand on.

"RELEASE"

This releases your dog from any current command and tells him he can go play or eat or whatever, he is basically free to go do whatever he wants now.
HAND SIGNAL: Hand in a flicking motion away from you.

OTHER COMMANDS

Other commands you can teach your dog he will learn readily enough, such as "Go lay down," or "Go outside." I have taught my dog to "WAIT" when I lay down a treat and not take it until I nod and say, "Take it!" When I want her to get into the truck I say, "LOAD UP!" These are all obedience commands to be sure, but not as important as the ones above. You and your dog will teach each other a lot of others, I'm sure.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

PART 1: 5 RULES FOR HOUSE BREAKING YOUR NEW PUPPY

Since I just had puppies and sent them all off to new homes, it occured to me it might be usefull to publish here the info sheets I gave to each new puppy owner about how to train your new puppy, so other people might find help from them, too.

This is the first one on...

5 RULES FOR HOUSE BREAKING YOUR NEW PUPPY:

RULE #1: ALWAYS PRAISE YOUR PUPPY when he asks to go outside, again when he actually does his business outside, and yet again when he comes back inside after having relieved himself outside. Do so enthusiastically and in an excited tone, petting, scratching, and stroking him in ways he most likes.

While punishment for mistakes is necessary, PRAISE for doing it outside is even more so. The puppy's desire to please you will be the strongest of all motivating forces for him to become house trained. It is impossible for me to emphasize enough how important positive reinforcment for good behavior is, more so than any punishment or discouragement. So much so that this is rule #1 for a reason.

RULE #2: Consistency...always praise your puppy for going outside, don't be lazy. As he comes to expect praise for doing so, failing to praise him even once could confuse him and undo all your effort so far. Likewise when you punish him for mistakes, make it the same punishment every time, don't escalate out of frustration. When taking him outside to relieve himself, whether on schedule or after an accident, try to use the same door each time. When he begins to scratch, bark, or otherwise signal that he needs to go out, don't make him wait - respond as promptly as you can and let him out, praising him for asking. Always praise him after comeing back in as well.

RULE #3: Patience. Don't get mad if your puppy makes mistakes, he's bound to. Each mistake is a teaching opportunity. Approach it as such.

RULE #4: Schedule. Always take your puppy outside to relieve himself immediately after each meal you've fed him. Wait for him to relieve himself, and praise him when he does. This will take some time at first, but soon he'll catch onto what this time is for and relieve himself relatively quickly. Keeping this schedule does two things - it reduces the chance of an accident because he has already relieved himself. Also the puppy soon learns the schedule and may sometimes even cease feeling the urge to go until after he's eaten.

RULE #5: Punishment. There are two forms of punishment you should mete out under different circumstances. First, if you catch him in the act, it is okay to give him a quick "pop" on the bottom accompanied by a sharp, "NO!". Many will tell you to never "hit" your puppy, but I think a "pop" on the butt to get his attention is fine. Don't do it hard, you are only trying to startle him into stopping and get his attention. Then take him immediately outside to finish. Remember to praise him when he does.

The second kind of punishment is given if you do not catch him in the act. If you find a puddle or solid deposit that you didn't see him do, don't hit or "pop" him. But it is okay to show him the mess and say sharply, "NO!" Then take him immediately outside. Many trainers will tell you this is ineffective because the puppy has forgotten already that he made the mess. But in my opinion that doesn't matter - even if he doesn't remember it is his mess, he still gets the idea that such messes are unacceptible, and this, ultimately, is the message you want him to get.

NOTE: NEVER RUB YOUR PUPPY'S NOSE IN HIS MESS! This only causes him to ingest his own urine or feces when he licks it off his nose. You don't want your puppy to get a taste for this and become a poo-eater.

NOW, GO BACK AND READ RULE #1 AGAIN BEFORE FINSHING THE REST BELOW!

If you remain consistent in these five rules, soon your puppy will begin scratching at the door and/or barking when he needs to go out to relieve himself. Always praise him when he does so.

BELL METHOD: Another great method is to hang a bell from the doorknob by a string. Every time you take your puppy outside to relieve himself, whether on schedule or as the result of a mistake, pause here and cause his nose to tap the bell and make it ring. Soon he will ring this bell as a way of asking to go out. Always praise him when he does. Many people find this preferable to having their dog bark to go out.

CRATE TRAINING: Many trainers swear by the crate training method, as do I. When you are not home or cannot otherwise supervise your puppy, put him in a crate designed for dogs, big enough for him to be comfortable and lined with a cushion. Dogs do not like to relieve themselves where they sleep and so will learn quickly to hold themselves while in this crate. A very young puppy is still going to make mistakes. Merely clean these up and DO NOT punish him for this - he can only be reasonably expected to hold it for so long at his young age. But he will learn quicker using this method than merely letting him roam the house when you are gone.

As he becomes house-trained you will no longer need to lock him in the crate when you are away, but keep it for him anyway. Soon your puppy will like being in his crate, even when he doesn't have to be. He may often sleep there or seek refuge there when firghtened. This will become his home. I call it my dog's "condo."

NOTE: NEVER punish your puppy while he is in his crate, never force him into it against his will or as a form of punihsment, and never forcibly drag him out of it, even if he runs here to escape punishement. Having this be a sanctuary for your dog is highly desireable and you don't want him to associate his crate with being punished.

DOGGY DOORS: While doggy doors are a great convenience, they can inhibit your dog's ability to become house trained. You want your puppy to be welcome at the homes of friends and relatives who may not have doggy doors. So until your puppy becomes house trained, block up your doggy door. Even after he has learned to be both house trained and to use the doggy door, block it off occasionally and make him ask to go out as a sort of refresher course.

PUPPY PADS: DON'T DO IT! Puppy pads are designed to be an intermediate step in house training. They are absorbant pads you can buy and teach your puppy to relieve himself on them. In my opinion these are a HIGE mistake! First, soiled pads are unsanitary and unsightly to visitors. Second and most importantly, once your puppy has learned to releive himself on these, teaching him to THEN ask to go outside is next to impossible. Also, when he visits family and friends, you must bring some pads with you or risk your puppy soiling their floors, and again the unsightly nature of soiled pads is certain to limit the number of invitiations you and your puppy are liable to get in the fuiture. In the end these "conveniences" are counter-productive to your attempts to house train your dog and are more trouble than they are worth.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

! ALL PUPPIES SOLD !

Well, all of my little wiggly fuzzy-britches have gone to new homes (or have been paid for and will be picked up soon.)

I want to thank everyone who expressed interest, who came and looked at my bundles of joy, and who passed info along to friends and family members who are interested in buying puppies.

This has been a thoroughly rewarding experience. Everything seemed to go so smoothly, so perfectly I can't help but think that these puppies were meant to be born, that their new families were meant to have them, and that I was meant to be their mom.

I not only pray that each of them have a wonderful life, but having met all of their new families, I know they will.

Good luck my little ones! Live long, love deep, and laugh freely!

PS - One of my little boys is staying here with me and my human Kevin. To learn more about him, visit his blog at http://Titus-Beau.BlogSpot.com

Monday, November 21, 2011

PUPPIES: 7 WEEKS

Beautiful AKC-eligible St. Bernard puppies born 10/4/2011, ready to go to new homes any day after 11/26/2011 - JUST IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

If interested, email me at Cocoa-Belle at daydreamindustries.com.

Check out the pictures below. Numbered by sex, they are presented in order of birth. The names shown are temporary - you can pick your own.
MALE #1
"COPPER" ! SOLD !



MALE #3 (left)
"TITUS" ! SOLD !

MALE #5 (right)
"TRAVELER" ! SOLD !



MALE #4
"HP (HARRY POTTER)" ! SOLD !



FEMALE #1
"LITTLE GIRL" ! SOLD !



MALE #6
"SIRIUS (The dog star)" ! SOLD !



FEMALE #2
"BIG GIRL" ! SOLD !


Friday, November 11, 2011

PUPPIES: WEEK 5 - PUPPY CHAOS

Beautiful AKC-eligible St. Bernard puppies born 10/4/2011, ready to go to new homes any day after 11/26/2011 - JUST IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

If interested, email me at Cocoa-Belle at daydreamindustries.com.

Puppy chaos happens twice a day when puppies are let loose to roam the world while we change their bedding.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

PUPPIES: 5 WEEKS

Beautiful AKC-eligible St. Bernard puppies born 10/4/2011, ready to go to new homes any day after 11/26/2011 - JUST IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

If interested, email me at Cocoa-Belle at daydreamindustries.com.

Check out the pictures below. Numbered by sex, they are presented in order of birth. The names shown are temporary - you can pick your own.
MALE #1
"COPPER" ! SOLD !



MALE #2
"BRUISER" ! SOLD !



MALE #3
"TITUS" ! SOLD !



MALE #4
"HP (HARRY POTTER)" ! SOLD !



MALE #5
"TRAVELER" ! SOLD !



FEMALE #1
"LITTLE GIRL" ! SOLD !



MALE #6
"SIRIUS (The dog star)" ! SOLD !



FEMALE #2
"BIG GIRL" ! SOLD !


Thursday, October 27, 2011

PUPPIES: 3 WEEKS - DOGFIGHT!

Beautiful AKC-eligible St. Bernard puppies born 10/4/2011, ready to go to new homes any day after 11/26/2011 - JUST IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

If interested, email me at Cocoa-Belle at daydreamindustries.com.